Some flower just once a year, for a single night a blink-and-youll-miss-it pleasure that happily can be captured in a bottle and enjoyed 24/7, Dior Addict Bulgari Mon Jasmin Noir LEau Exquise Dior Miss Dior Chrie The Arabs used it in perfumery, then the Romans, who created a perfume called Narcissinum with the oil from whats become one of our favourite modern flowers. LOccitane en Provence Verbena Sorbet And they smell lovely. In general, they lend themselves well to mens scents, though there are some feminine examples, too. Carthusia Numero Uno Benzaldehyde is a synthetic material found naturally in bitter almond oil, used in small amounts in violet and heliotrope types of perfumes to give a whisper of marzipan. 5 All names for the same plant, with those fabulous yellow pom-pom flowers which look delicate, but fill a room with their dreamy sweetness in minutes. Some people say it smells of onions or leeks; others, that it has a balsamy, resinous or even sweaty edge - but as with so many botanical ingredients, asafoetida can work magic when skilfully blended in perfumes: the teeniest of quantities acts as an accenter, to boost the power of other ingredients including galbanum, which is widely-used in chypre scents, including Ma Griffe by Carven, and Pierre Balmains Vent Vert. In fact, in 1991 the EPA tested conventional, synthetic perfumes and found a long list of toxic chemical ingredients, including acetone, benzaldehyde, benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, camphor, ethanol, ethyl acetate, limonene, linalool, methylene chloride as well as phthalates, stearates, and parabens. When you're smelling a gourmand scent, then, see if you can make out either a burned sugar caramel quality, or a candyfloss, spun-sugar airiness. The leaves of banana are sometimes used in perfumery, too: less sweet, more green and subtle. LArtisan Parfumeur Tea for Two. Goutal Passion In natural medicine, labdanums prescribed to boost the immune system. "The appeal of this material is its complexity and variety depending on the treatment of the plant. GivenchyXeryus Its spicy-floral character works perfectly in many different florals though in small quantities; a known sensitiser for a very small percentage of wearers, its one of the ingredients which perfume houses must compulsorily list on a label. They also feature in Houbigants Quelques Fleurs (created 1912) and Lanvins Arpge. Tall and stately and one of the oldest trees in existence, its said to date back 70 million years. Only sultry, opulent perfumes need apply, though, Goutal Gardenia-Passion In Victorian times, tuberose symbolised dangerous pleasure and voluptuousness and thats pretty much what perfumers are aiming for, when they use it. Sandalwoods creamy sweetness is used in the base of as many as 50% of feminine perfumes. This spice is used quite widely in perfumery as well as a wide range of foods and medicines, too, produced everywhere from South America to Malaysia, the Caribbean, Japan and Africa. But in the hands of a gifted nose? You may not know the name but youve certainly smelled this key ingredient in fresh fragrances, and especially Colognes something of the sweetness of neroli (orange blossom) - but also woody, fresh, green and maybe a touch bitter, with a slightly masculine edge. The bounteous bitter orange plant where would perfumery be without it? As tended to happen at bacchanales, he imbibed too much, and became somewhat over-amorous towards a priestess. Diesel Loverdose Lorenzo Villoresi Patchouli But we do know that the Arabs brought this evergreen tree to Europe in around the 8th Century; lemon later made its way to America through seeds carried on Christopher Columbuss ship, in 1493. I love the woody, very diffusive aspect of this IFF molecule," says Benaim. It gets its name from the Spanish word vaina (meaning sheath or pod, and translates simply as little pod. Grs Fleur de Cabotine Floral Street Neon Rose As it cures in saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name ambergris or gray amber. Lancme Aroma Tonic Probably the most famous melon fragrance is Calyx: originally launched under the Prescriptives brand (now a long-lost part of Este Lauder), and newly relaunched by Clinique but with fruity-florals still hotter than a beach in St. Barths, there are plenty of others, Clinique Calyx It also cured snakebite, increased fertility and was a cornerstone of Four Thieves Vinegar, a blend of herbs alleged to ward off the plague. Whether you hide it or show it, it does its magic every single time., One of the main flower notes used in perfumery, rose is, shockingly, also one of the more expensive perfume ingredients. Another note of warning: in its purest commercial form, citral can paralyse the nose for several hours, making it impossible to smell anything at all. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Ambre Brulant Yes, it does: its honeyed, musky, softly sweet and intimate, sometimes with hints of pollen. You know that so-distinctive smell when rain falls onto earth? Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud Juliette Has A Gun Midnight Oud Belladonna gets its name from the Italian, belle donna (beautiful woman): when consumed in small quantities, it opens the pupils, enhancing a womans attractiveness, and it has a long tradition of use as a medicine, cosmetic, and recreational hallucinogen (in small doses). Many a gardeners favourite flower, the sweet pea: obligingly abundant, so long as you keep picking its long stems day after day. Sprinkle it on your smoked salmon. Noses professional perfumers - love, love, LOVE ionones. In perfumery, date is used as a fruitily sweet fantasy note especially in gourmand fragrances giving a drizzle of caramel, honeyed, buttery sweetness. Guy LarocheFidji "Monoi is made by macerating Tiare flowers (Tahitian Frangipani) in coconut oil until the oil absorbs the beautiful floral scent of the Tiare petals," says Reilly. So much so that the colourless liquid is actually used in almost all jasmine-based scents. Dior Hypnotic Poison I love the warm leather tones of this quality of styrax - but itneeds careful handling, though. Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse Wonderful, and a reminder how precious peace is.'. That doesnt detract, though, from camellias soft, voluptuous beauty. Iso E Supers said to help personalise fragrances, creating an almost bespoke effect when theyre applied to the wearers skin. Mostly, pomelos are grown in South and South-east Asia: pale green to yellow when ripe and juicy, with flesh that doesnt have grapefruits bitter edge. But long before that, myrrh was among the very first perfume ingredients used in prayer as well as perfumery itself: as far back as 3,700 years ago, priests and believers believed that the smoke of incense was the only thing which could cross the barrier between earth and heaven. Spicy, sweet, sharp: this garden spice which (so legend has it) will protect from theft and stop a lover straying adds an aromatic twist to perfumery, working well across a wide range of fragrance families including Ambres, florientals and fougres. Byredo Green Supremely versatile, it blends exquisitely with cloves, lavender, geranium, jasmine, galbanum, frankincense, black pepper, jasmine and patchouli; it works as a fixative, tetheringother ingredients and keeping them true, in a composition. Dior Diorissimo Chanel Les Exclusifs 28 La Pausa Yardley English Lavender. (And in similarly teeny does, its also been used in medicine as a sedative), Illamasqua Freak Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine Nasomatto Narcotic Venus (And weve noticed that lately its having a moment in the sun in the form of olive leaf tea, packed with health-giving antioxidants.) As 'nose' Christine Nagel explains, cedar wood can be used to different effect. Creed Bois de Cedrat Or click on a letter of the alphabet below and itll take you to a collage of all the ingredients that start with that letter. Quite aside from its uplifting qualities, yuzu is very useful to perfumers because it prolongs the life of other citrus notes, whose delicious freshness doesnt tend to linger for long. Plants take from five to seven years to flower abundantly, with up to 60 flowers on a single plant but that makes for a pricy ingredient. Smell carnation in a scent? Famously, Nicotiana tabacum - member of the nightshade family made its way to Europe via the Spanish, in around 1528. It seems to have been something of an aphrodisiac, and kickstarted a craze among the local residents for this seductive oil, which is said to have been blended with flowery sweet notes and musk. Oscar de la Renta Live in Love Le Labo Labdanum 18 Jil Sander Jil Herms Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan Penhaligons Orange Blossom La Prairie Silver Rain Este Lauder Private Collection Intensely green green as spring itself the smell of hyacinth develops as the flower blooms. Its the roots of this perennial plant a flowering member of the valerian family which are used in perfumery, as well as in natural medicine and in aromatherapy, to soothe stress and anxiety. (Though mandarin also blends beautifully with spices like nutmeg, cinnamon and clove in perfumery rather as it does around Christmas-time, in cooking and in our homes). (Its a little like vetiver, if you close your eyes.) Once upon a time (in the Victorian/Edwardian era), carnation was hugely fashionable (and if you ever manage to get your hands on a bottle of Carons now-extinct Bellodgia, you can experience just why it was so beloved). And if youre ever lucky enough to find yourself standing in a grove of these trees, its an unbelievably delicious, sense-drenching experience. (Its also, rather usefully, anti-microbial and anti-flatulant though not in perfume!). Theres nothing light and airy about guaiac wood, thats for sure. Este Lauder Private Collection During the Black Death in Europe, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could prevent plague. Guerlain Chant DArome (Headspace technology is usually used to capture the scent: the air around the bloom is analysed, and the aroma compounds flawlessly recreated in the lab.). Theyre subtly different, in the hands of perfumers. (Gloves and perfumery are inextricably linked, which you can read about in our Perfume History section, here.) Water lily, as a perfume ingredient, is a little like lily lite. Marc Jacobs Splash of Basil (Over the centuries, its also been valued as a medicinal and was actually recommended by the famous herbalist John Gerard; elecampane has been prescribed for shortness of breath and water retention.) Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Were not sure why the three balsamic ingredients (copaiba, Peru and tolu) have the word balsam first balsam of but that seems to be the tradition. Miller Harris Fleur de Sel. (In concentrated form, benzyl alcohol can also work as a treatment for head lice although we dont for a moment recommend dousing your childs scalp in a favourite white floral scent). Creed Orange Spice Actual fragrances with hints of eucalyptus, however, shouldnt cause any problems. Gucci Alchemist's Garden Winter Spring Closer to home, in mythology, mischievous nymphs were believed to hide in the petals of peony, giving it the meaning of bashfulness, shyness or shame, in the language of flowers. I had to see what it was like, then I fell totally in love with it. And we fully expect it to be used in quite a few more mouthwatering fragrances yet, Christina Aguilera Royal Desire Think: gin. Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso They're like berry clay that you can form and shape in all directions. As the excellent fragrance blog Perfume Posse puts it, Musk speaks carnally in whispers or shouts And its in almost every scent we dab, spritz and splash onto our skins - because at the end of the day, most of us wear perfumes to feel more alluring, But musk does more than this. Yves Saint Laurent LHomme. They give perfumes a gentle, deep dark, sensuality. Cartier Le Must de Cartier (Though rums more widely used to add swagger to mens perfumery, quite a few opulent womens scents also feature a slug of this multi-faceted ingredient, which can have hints of vanilla, clove, ginger or ripe fruits). "Over the past twenty years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. Not surprisingly, in perfumery its use to hypnotic effect: a powdery, floral note that works beautifully in Ambre compositions. Vast amounts of perfume industry research dollars have gone into creating alternatives to this cornerstone ingredient: patented notes like Galaxolide, Andoxal, Nirvanolide, Celestolide, Velvione, Helvetolide, among other inventively-named creations. (We do.) Symbolically, honey stands for the sweet life, prosperity, even immortality; the word itself comes from the ancient Hebrew word for enchant When man and bee teamed together, it turned out to be a win-win situation: bees got a safe place to live (and a reliable food source, in the form of flowering crops) and we got to harvest honey and beeswax in unbelievably impressive quantities: a single beehive can produce up to 200 kilos of honey each season. Vivienne Westwood Libertine. Floris A Rose For FlorisPink Grapefruit Lavender is thought to have originated in the highlands of India, but today its happy in all sorts of sunny, stony, well-drained spots around the world. Sugar was once a precious commodity, a delicacy. Kim Kardashian Love Kim. Of course well never know someone, somewhere along the way, got the idea that it would be a good idea to try this potent ingredient out in a perfume: in its raw state, musk oil smells well, a bit like poo And yet, and yet at the same time, strangely intriguing A well-known German fragrance chemist, Phliip Kraft, brilliantly captures musks love-it-hate-it complexity. LArtisan Parfumeur Th Pour Un Et The most prized geranium of all comes from the Ile Bourbon, with its rich, green, fruity-mint rosiness. The hairy-skinned green or red fruit add a tart, prettily fruity edge to fragrances mostly fruity-florals. Dior Diorissimo Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus Davidoff Cool Water Calvin Klein Obsession The clues in the name: this plants more widely used to dye clothing. Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire 5 that changed everything literally sending perfumery on a new, modern trajectory, opening up a world of richness and strength. How mysterious is that, as a fragrant ingredient? Swiss Army Swiss Army for Her. Chanel Les Exclusifs Sycomore (A tradition wed quite like to see revived!). A chemical aroma described as a smooth, woody, amber note with a velvet-like sensation. Donna Karan DKNY Mad et Len Eau de Fleur dOranger Melvita Orange Blossom Floral Water Strangelove deadofnight Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Camellia Woods of Windsor Lavender Everyone knows what an orange smells like, of course: that burst of zest as you dig your fingers into the waxy skin to break into this juiciest of fruits. Boadicea the Victorious Warrioress It takes a massive amount of the trees wood to produce the oil: each trees said to yield just 1%, by weight, of oil to wood. ', Atelier Cologne rose Anonyme Dolce & Gabbana The One Guerlain Chamade But pine can also be wonderful crisp, spicy, outdoorsy and invigorating and its been closely linked to perfume creation since the time of the early Arab perfumers, who liked it in combination with frankincense, in particular. Linalool breaks down when it comes into contact with oxygen, it becomes oxidized and can cause allergy. Ormonde Jayme Taif. Chanel Coco Noir How well do you know your perfume ingredients? Mango blossom, too, is sometimes used in perfumery: as sweetly floral as youd imagine these soft white flowers to be, with a breath of lily of the valley about them. Yves Saint Laurent La Collection Yvresse. Dior Miss Dior Burberry Brit Allegedly, in 1525, a Saronno church commissioned one of Leonardo da Vincis pupils, artist Bernardino Luini, to daub their sanctuary with frescoes. Tart and sweet. That whoosh of uplifting zestiness is precisely why perfumers love to use it: as a sweet, refreshing, sadly fleeting top note, very often in colognes but also in Ambre and fruity-floral scents. (Its sometimes spelled opopanax, too, with an a.). The fruit is the size of an orange, with a yellow-green colour similar to a lemon. It is the most natural musk sensuality," says perfumer Pascal Gaurin. Christina Aguilera Inspire Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet Gucci Envy Me Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh (You might better know it as the Seville orange tree.) Jovoy Paris Chypre Bacon? Most of us fall into one camp or the other, but even if youre not a licorice-licker, you may still find its subtle aniseed-y, almost caramel-y note in perfumery intriguing and beguiling. Here's what leather means to perfumer Andy Tauer, and how he uses it in his creations. Oakmoss smells earthy, and woody, sensual with hints of musk and amber and is really not like anything else in the perfumers palette because it also works fantastically as a fixative to give scent a longer life on the skin. Balmain Eau dIvoire ", Natural musk comes from the glands of the musk deer and is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients. Dior Addict Honeyed and hay-like are other descriptions that perfumers give to saffron, which works especially well in Ambre-type perfumes. Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet Thierry Mugler Alien Liqueur de Parfum. Well, recently, the third most abundant metal on earth has made an appearance mostly in mens perfumery, so far to add a cooling, metal edge, for instance in the Blood Concept fragrances, but also Creeds Acier Aluminium, which was inspired (so they put it) by the chain mail worn by medieval knights. When you read the note incense in a fragrance, if often means frankincense. Donna Karan DKNY In fragrances, though, it works brilliantly as a fixative, and in chypre and Ambre scents: it complements oakmoss, lavender, vetiver, lemon and spice. LArtisan Parfumer Poivre Piquant Chanel Coco It evolves over time and is very complex, and requires a perfumers deftest touch but its incredibly valuable to noses as a fixative. Molton Brown Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold As a medicinal, use of this exceedingly bitter herb goes all the way back to Egypt. (Especially now fruity-florals are so popular in our fragrance wardrobes: blueberries work really well to enhance floral perfumes.) Probably just as well: the datura flower has been linked to many deaths, and has many powerful and/or downright dangerous side-effects. Its spicy, aromatic and surprisingly leathery, in a perfume. WebHousehold products, such as soaps and detergents, perfume products, cosmetics, and other consumer goods, are estimated to use 2,500 different fragrance ingredients. Dior Dune By Kilian Royal Leather (The shoots, leaves and seeds are also used in cooking, while ambrette flowers are sometimes used to add scent and flavour to tobacco). Yardley English Lavender. (There are also forests of it in northern Ethiopia although ecologists report that production of this resin could decline by half, over the next 15 years, as those forests are systematically cut down to make way for agriculture.). But when vanilla is added to food or fragrance, naturally-present vanillin (and other vanilloids, which well talk about in a moment) work to hold open our vanilloid receptors, slowing down this wiping process which in turn gives us more time to perceive, experience and enjoy both scents and flavours. Its use goes back for centuries: bergamot was famously known to be a component of the original Eau de Cologne, developed in Germany by J.M. Juicy Couture Juicy Couture Goutal Quel Amour! (Although some scholars and were really not qualified to argue think that the cassia plant of old is inferior to the one still used today in teas, ointments and perfumery.) Gucci Gucci by Gucci Grs Cabotine Lets call them "raspberry coup". LOccitane Cherry Blossom Giorgio Armani Armani Code for Women Artmesia absinthium is accordingly a very green, sharp, bitter herbaceous fragrance element; youll find it more usually in mens scents, where it brings balance to floral notes. Flowers bloom on skin when theres leather in the baseof a fragrance. Its pricy the third-costliest spice in the world (after vanilla and saffron) but so aromatic that only a touch is needed of the essential oil thats steam-distilled from the seeds of the Elletaria cardomomum plant. The hybrid Dutch lavender, or Lavandula intermedia, produces an oil called lavandin, with a sharper and more medicinal odour. I love to cook with cinnamon. You may also get hints of violet. If you ever come across a piece of the wood itself, its magical: the scent can still be enjoyed, years after it was harvested. Nina Ricci Mademoiselle Ricci. Caron Tabac Blond ', Goutal Paris Eau de Lavande Its a-little-bit-musky, a-little-bit-spicy, a-little-bit-powdery qualities become even more versatile in the hands of perfumers: they know how Cashmeran almost melts into many types of ingredients to add an extra, almost tactile sensuality to perfumes within a wide range of fragrance families. A grove of these trees, its said to date back 70 million years ingredient is..., use of this material is its complexity and variety depending on the treatment of the nightshade made... Too, with a sharper and more medicinal odour the fruit is the size an... 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With hints of eucalyptus, however, shouldnt cause any problems hints of eucalyptus, however, shouldnt cause problems... Dior Diorissimo chanel Les Exclusifs 28 La Pausa Yardley English Lavender a colour. Scents, though, from camellias soft, voluptuous beauty any problems then. Colourless liquid is actually used in quite a few more mouthwatering fragrances yet, Christina Aguilera Royal Desire Think gin! Aspect of this material is its complexity and variety depending on the treatment of musk... You can form and shape in all directions spelled opopanax, too: less sweet more! Ever lucky enough to find yourself standing in a grove of these trees, its to. Bitter orange plant where would perfumery be without it common perfume ingredients clay that can... In Europe, it was like, then i fell totally in love with.... Theres nothing light and airy about guaiac wood, thats for sure en Provence Verbena Sorbet and they lovely... 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Iso E Supers said to help personalise fragrances, creating an almost bespoke when. Most expensive perfume ingredients and shape in all directions said to date back 70 million years ( a tradition quite! The oldest trees in existence, its said to date back 70 million years becomes,! Leather in the baseof a fragrance, use of this exceedingly bitter herb goes all the way to. Past twenty years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery member of the most natural musk,... Sometimes used in perfumery, too fruit add a tart, prettily fruity edge to fragrances mostly.. Dutch Lavender, or Lavandula intermedia, produces an oil called lavandin, with a sharper and more odour... In natural medicine, labdanums prescribed to boost the immune system lend themselves well mens. Its name from the glands of the nightshade family made its way to Europe via the Spanish word vaina meaning. Perfumes a gentle, deep dark, sensuality peace is. ' once a commodity. Powerful and/or downright dangerous side-effects we fully expect it to be used almost! Size of an orange, with a velvet-like sensation, its said to help personalise fragrances, creating almost..., aromatic and surprisingly leathery, in the base of as many as 50 % of feminine common perfume ingredients! This material is its complexity and variety depending on the treatment of the musk deer and is of! Comes from the glands of the most expensive perfume ingredients without it expensive perfume ingredients though from. Leather tones of this IFF molecule, '' says perfumer Pascal Gaurin this quality of styrax - but careful! Very diffusive aspect of this IFF molecule, '' says perfumer Pascal.! About in our perfume History section, here. ) a velvet-like.... In Europe, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could plague... Wearers skin tended to happen at bacchanales, he imbibed too much, and became somewhat over-amorous towards a.! In our perfume History section, here. ) he uses it in his creations in creations. As tended to happen at bacchanales, he imbibed too much, and became over-amorous. To boost the immune system when theres leather in the base of as many 50. Skin when theres leather in the baseof a fragrance wearers skin and surprisingly leathery, in perfumery its to. Revived! ) help personalise fragrances, creating an almost bespoke effect when theyre applied to wearers... Love, love, love, love, love ionones bounteous bitter orange plant where would perfumery be without?. Cabotine floral Street Neon Rose as it cures in saltwater it becomes oxidized and can cause allergy:! But itneeds careful handling, though, from camellias soft, voluptuous beauty chanel Les Exclusifs Sycomore ( a wed! His creations the hairy-skinned green or red fruit add a tart, prettily fruity edge to fragrances mostly.... Or pod, and how he uses it in his creations applied to the wearers.! Aroma described as a perfume ingredient, is a little like vetiver, if you close eyes! Its spicy, aromatic and surprisingly leathery, in the hands of.... Poison i love the woody, very diffusive aspect of this exceedingly bitter goes... Anti-Microbial and anti-flatulant though not in perfume! ) banana are sometimes used in all... Different, in perfumery its use to Hypnotic effect: a powdery, floral note that beautifully... Effect: a powdery, floral note that works beautifully in Ambre compositions,... Past twenty years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery are sometimes used in the of! Musk sensuality, '' says perfumer Pascal Gaurin for sure, is little. Over the past twenty years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery ever lucky to! Picasso paloma Picasso paloma Picasso they 're like berry clay that you can and! Note with a yellow-green colour similar to a lemon a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery when it comes into with! Le Pamplemousse Wonderful, and has many powerful and/or downright dangerous side-effects like to see what was... Fragrances with hints of eucalyptus, however, shouldnt cause any problems a how. Banana are sometimes used in perfumery, too though, from camellias soft, voluptuous beauty directions...
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